Women’s Day au naturel

The videos began early Tuesday morning on the SANParks Facebook pages: two lionesses with an impala they’d killed on the green that adjoins the restaurant at the Skukuza Golf Club. While they feasted on the green, patrons dined in the restaurant.

Then another tale broke – a leopard leaping across a small barrier, through Nkuhlu picnic spot, after a bushbuck, causing people to scatter in terror.

A few days earlier I was with a group of friends and our day went like this:

The stars stood out in the early August morning sky. I greeted Orion, my favorite constellation (probably because it is one of the few I recognise) like an old friend. He makes way for Scorpio in southern hemisphere winter skies.

We were early, so could savour the peace on the dusty road where we were to meet the rest of our party. It was a holiday Friday, Women’s Day, and we were off to Kruger Park. I stood quietly with the van der Walts, enjoying the coffee Talitha had made, and enjoyed the cool morning air. The weather forecast was set to hot – way hotter than it should be in August.

Soon we saw lights approaching from the west – the Labuschagnes and the Kotzees were on time. As they stopped, the Ferreiras arrived with the Grevilles. Our party was complete, and we were bang on time.

Seventeen of us in four vehicles, each car with a radio so we could communicate. I was with the Kotzees, Karen and I are old Kruger partners, renowned for escaping into the bush at any and every opportunity. We directed Deon and Simonè from the back seat.

Check-in at Numbi Gate went smoothly despite the network being down. Chris and Erica, experienced guides took the lead, with Damon and Sandra to keep them on track, the rest of us following in convoy. The bush is end of winter brittle, it has been hot and dry, many fires so the veld is still black in places.

Chris soon pointed out hippo spoor on the side of the road together with cat prints and one perfectly formed elephant pad in the dust.

Erica told us a story about why hippos spread their dung, which they do with great gusto. Heaven help anyone caught in the spray of that lot! The tale goes: when God made hippos, he told them there would not be enough fish for them, so they had to be grazers. To ensure they listened, He made them spread their dung so He could easily check for fish bones.

It is baby season in the Park, and our first youngster was a giraffe. Miniature giraffe are perfectly formed mini-me’s and cute as can be. We had regular sightings along the road to Skukuza: zebra, wildebeest, kudu, impala, a brown Snake Eagle, a couple of elephant nonchalantly browsing. Chris pointed out how browsers like giraffe and kudu are the first to lose condition at this time of the year when the veldt is so dry, and not many juicy leaves on the trees and shrubs. Later in the day, when antelope usually doze in the shade, we saw them still grazing, needing to take in more food to get the requisite nutrients.

In contrast to the dry colourless vegetation were the magnificent explosions of colour, the Impala lilies totally showing off. These strange stubby plants are transformed at this time of the year, their sprays of pink and white bringing a sophistication to their surroundings. One of the many dichotomies that make this continent so fascinating.

Our first stop was Skukuza Golf Club. There is something about early starts and being in the bush that gets the appetite going, so after a walk to stretch our legs, out came the gas rings to boil water, and containers of delicious chocolate and bran muffins.

One of the better discussions of the day happened when young le Roux decided he wanted Niknaks® and his dad said ‘no’. At the end of an impressively patient standoff, the odds were on van Wyk winning, but it could have gone any way. Finally, his mum, Annȇne was brought it to deliver the winning line. With a heavy sigh and a sad look on his face, le Roux apologised, saying: “Sorry, Niknaks. ®”

Time to be on our way. A few minutes later we came across a nursery herd, with a tiny elephant, barely grey, being well protected by the family unit. He was a little grumpy and unsure of himself, but we got a clear view of him, I rather think ‘he’ was ‘she’, crossing the road, and nursing from his mum. Then we were stopped by a large herd of buffalo crossing the road for their morning tea at Lake Panic. Two of the big five before 9 am.

Our plan was to braai, or barbecue, at Nkuhlu, a shaded picnic spot on the Sabie River. We were lucky to find a table and space big enough to accommodate us, and soon the satisfying smell of bacon and eggs frying enlivened our conversation until full mouths caused a happy silence.

I had a chance to catch up with Jo, who I hadn’t said much more than ‘Hi’ to for months. We were deep in discussion when a wet, gooey package spattered my arm and chest. “Good luck,” chorused the gang.

“Yuk” I replied, wiping it off as best I could. We picked up where we left off until another piece of luck arrived on the other side of my T-shirt. Really?

Then Jo was anointed from above! We were definitely under the wrong tree!

I rinsed my T-shirt in the ladies’ and realised the blessing: The temperature was in the mid-30s by then, so a wet T-shirt brought much relief.

On the way home we came across a Hyena den with a number of young, including two very new cubs, still black and myopic. It was fascinating to see the mother pick them up, not by the scruff of their necks, but firmly grasped around the neck. Those jaws that are known to be strong enough to splinter bones, delicately moving these little ones was a sight we won’t forget.

What a way to celebrate Women’s Day.

We left Numbi Gate twelve hours after we entered it! It might not have had the degree of excitement that came a few days later, but it was a great day nonetheless and we were a happy group of tired bush visitors.